About one year ago, we have got a visit from our old friend. He just recently visited another potter, Mr. Dorda, who is author of the recipe for my beloved clay. My friend was very happy to have chance to visit this potter, he among all other stories from Mr. Dordas workshop describe also a technology, which this potter uses to build his forms.
He use ytong bricks as a base for his forms as it is a much easier material to create certain forms with than gyps and with, in some way, even better characteristic than gyps. Afterwards this base form is given gyps coating.
The moment I heard this, I kind of knew my problem with drying tiles or large flat work has been solved; I vent to our shed and brought some ytong bricks 5cm thick. I place them on flat desk and cover them with fabric – I later realize that fabric was a better choice for my situation, than coating ytong bricks with gyps as I single fire all larger pieces (my electric kiln for bisque is only 32cm in diameter) and that mean I also glaze them, when they are leather hard. I do glazing after moving the piece onto the ytong bricks. I let the glaze stiffen to leather dry and then I cover the piece with another fabric and place another ytong brick on top of the tile or inside flat bottom piece. Fabric can be removed after loading the piece into kiln and wash form glaze.
He use ytong bricks as a base for his forms as it is a much easier material to create certain forms with than gyps and with, in some way, even better characteristic than gyps. Afterwards this base form is given gyps coating.
The moment I heard this, I kind of knew my problem with drying tiles or large flat work has been solved; I vent to our shed and brought some ytong bricks 5cm thick. I place them on flat desk and cover them with fabric – I later realize that fabric was a better choice for my situation, than coating ytong bricks with gyps as I single fire all larger pieces (my electric kiln for bisque is only 32cm in diameter) and that mean I also glaze them, when they are leather hard. I do glazing after moving the piece onto the ytong bricks. I let the glaze stiffen to leather dry and then I cover the piece with another fabric and place another ytong brick on top of the tile or inside flat bottom piece. Fabric can be removed after loading the piece into kiln and wash form glaze.
I leave it for about a week and when I uncover it, it is usually almost dry. Does not need to exchange or turn around, like when one used drywall. Ytong bricks are very easy to cut in any size and material from those bricks is not hazard inside pottery as gypsum is.
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